Turn shoe and method for making same



Oct. 17, 1933. J us 1,931,399

TURN SHOE AND METHOD FOR IAKING SAIE Filed larch 3, 1933 2 sheets-shear.1

I i 9 W 1' 14' efafin Jkzasler Oct. 17, 1933. J TRUSLER 1,931,399

TURN SHOE AND METHOD FQR MAKING SAME Filed March 3, 1933 2 Sheets-Sheet2 e705 kasler Patented Oct. 17 1933 UNlTEl) STATES 1,931,399 v V H TURNSHOE AND METHOD FOR.

. SAME .John

Trusler, Bloomfield, N. J., assignor of one 1 half to L. W. Proctor,Brooklyn, N. Y.

Application mmnausss. Serial .N 659,545 s Claims. -(c1. 12-14 2 rib orlip. The last is then removed and'the upper.

" and sole turned inside out; following which, the last is againput'back into the shoe, and the shoe is finished. g r

This process leaves aridge all around the shoe on the inside where theupper is attached to the sewing rib and is the greatest disadvantage ofthis type of construction as it reduces the amount of space inside'theshoe on which' 'thefoot has an uninterrupted flat surface to tread.

It is the purpose ofthe present invention to 0 eliminate this ridge andprovide a continuously. flat surface on the inside of the shoe. v It isanother object of the invention to produce a turnshoe having the abovedescribed aide vantage by simple steps of a method which'adds' verylittle, if any; manufacturing expense to pres ent shoe factoryprocedure, and which maybe taught experienced shoemakers in a very shorttime.

With the foregoing and other objects in view,

'30 the invention will be morefully described hereinafter, and will bemore particularly pointed out in the claims appended hereto.

In the drawings, wherein like symbols refer to like or correspondingparts throughout the 7 several views,

Figure 1 is a perspectiveview showing an improved sole constructed inaccordance with the present invention with the flesh side up and theflap thrown back.

Figure 2 is a similar view with parts broken away and showing the flaprestored to normal position covering the, shouldered portion.

Figure 3 is also a perspective view showing the improved sole grain sideup.

Figure 4 is a longitudinal section taken on the line 4-4 in Figure 1.

Figure 5 is a transverse section taken on the line 5-5 also in Figure 1.

Figure 6 is a top plan view with parts broken away showing the improvedsole on the last with the upper sewed thereto.

Figure 7 is a cross section taken on the line 77 in Figure 6 with thelast removed.

Q55 Figure 8 is a view similar to Figure 7 after the portion 14 andsewing rib 15.

hasbeefi removed from new and tufi ed insideouty I Figure 9'isafragmentary cross section througha comer portion of Figure 8 taken onan enlarged scale and onthe line 9 9m Figure"10,a"ndi Figure 10 is alongitudinal sectional'viewftaken through a completed shoe constructedaccording to the present invention.

Referring more particularly to the drawings, 12 designates theflesh-side and '13 the grain side of a" leather sole such-asusedin' turnshoes. Ordinarily a shoulderedportion 14 is made on the flesh sideiofthe sole outwardly'o'f' a sewing rib a or lip 15. When the sole-isput'on a last flesh side up the'upper is placed one. last inside outwith the edges of the upper engaging the s ho'ul deredportion- 14. Suchedgeof the j'upper is stitched=to the sole by stitches passing throughthe sewing rib 15. i if f 'In accordance with the-present invention thesole on its flesh side isflrst cut all around-the front portion fromshank'to shank and'forj an inch or so deep toprovide aflap 16. This flapis preferably very thin and as before stated is cut on the flesh sideofthesole. Q 5

As shown in Figure 1 the flap 16 is foldedbac'k or inwardly to exposethe portion of "the sole beneath such flap; and in this exposed portion;

is formed the shouldered portion 14 and the. sewing rib 15.

Figure 5 shows the flap 16 folded back and in dotted lines the flap isshown as extending in its normal position whereby it covers theshouldered portion 14: and the sewing rib 15.

The improved sole is prepared with a channel knife, especially made,whereby to produce this flap 16, the flap being folded back as shown toexpose the under surface of the flesh, side of the sole for theproduction of the regular shouldered V The improved sole, in thecondition shown in Figures 1, 4 and 5 is then placed upon a last, asindicated in, Fig- I ures6 and '7, with the flesh side out and with theflap 16 folded back to expose the shouldered portion 14 and thesewingrib 15. The upper 17 is then applied to the last in vthe usualmanner inside out and its edge 18 brought over and against theshouldered portion 14, beingsewed to the sole by the stitches 19 passingthrough the sewing rib 15.

After the shoe is lasted and sewed, the flap 16 is put back in place, asindicated in Figures 6 and '7, except in Figure 6 the tip is folded backfor cleamess of illustration. After this operation the shoe is removedfrom the last and turned inside out. In other words from the positionshown in Figure '7 to that shown in Figures 8 and 9, thus bringing thethin flap 16 and the flesh side of the sole upon the inside of the shoe.The flap covers the'objectionable shouldered portion 14 as well as thesewing rib 15 and the stitches, and such flap 16 leaves a flatunobstructed surface extendlnz' all theway across the whole width of thesole on the inside, adding naturally to the comfort of the wearer.

I am aware that some factories havepropoeed vto put a sole leatherskiver inside the shoe and under the sock lining to accomplish thesame-result, but this fills up the space inside the shoe and does notleave as muchroomns the present construction and method, but such'priorv method requires the purchase and useof a larger shoe than thefoot would ordinarily require. Such re quirement is commerciallyobjectionable espe-- cially in womens shoes where the purchaser desires:the smallest; sizethatcan .be. possibly; :worn;

I am also aware that it has been proposed-i0 SDIit-soIes-in a somewhatfashion :but for an entirelydifierent purpose. as shown anddescribe-dict instance in the .Lifschutz Patent No.

1,795,222 dated March 3,1931. inwhichthe flap 11v. iszmade on the grainside and not on the flesh side, but this is not a turn shoe and the flap11 15.011 the-outsideiof thefinished shoathus taking thewear andnecessarily being very thick and in 'anyheventdrequiring earlyrepairr'and on account of; the thickness other: making it'difficult toexposethe channellor sewing and lasting;

In FigurcsQ and 10 there is shown an insole 20 ingthefinished shoe-whichinsole is'usual in these typeset shoes; 7

V In Figures 3 and 10 there is shown a heel flap 21 cut from the grainpart of the sole which is also a usual construction.-

' i It is obvious that various changes and modificationamay be madeingthedetails'of construction and design of theaboyespecificallydescribed embodimentof this invention ,withoutdeparting from thespiritthereof, such changes and modifications being restricted only bythe scope of the followingclaims. 7

What isclairned 1S1?" 'flat surface presented against the foot on which;to tread.

the flap inwardly to expose the shouldered por- 2. The herein describedmethod for formin turn shoes,- which consists in supplying a sole havingits flesh side split all the way around from shank to shank at theforepart of the sole to pro- 'vide a thin flexible flap with the innerportion of the flap attached at the intermediate part of the sole, saidsole having a shouldered portion and a sewing rib in the space beneaththe flap, folding tiont and sewing rib;pplacing the edge'oizan upperagainst the. shouldered portion and stitching. said upper to the sewing,rib, subsequently straightene ing said flap outwardly and cementing. orotherwise securing the 118111 07911 the shouldered per: tion, ribnandengaged edge iofathevupper 'and turning the sole and upper sov astobring the thin flapsinwardly of the shoe: Y 7

3. Thehereindescribed methodfor manufacturing turn shoes fromasoleihavingits flesh side split to provide a very thin flapextendinginward- 1y about an inch all the way around the; iorepart ofthe sole from .shank'to-shankandhaving beneath the flap a shoulderedportion and: a rib in thefflesh portion,:which consists in folding theflap inwardly upon the intermediate. portion of the sole to reveal theshouldered portionand sewing rib, lasting the solewith theflesh partout, lasting an'upper and bringing the edge .of'the' upper againstsaidshouideredportion, stitching I such upper to thegsewing rib,straightening but the flap to its original position overdthe shoulderedportion and rib and securing the flap in place, re'-. movingv the lastandeturning the-shoeinside out whereby to bring the flap against theinsidezof the 42 foot. is I r 7 V 'VJQHN TRUSLER.

